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| Being educated about the equipment you are using will help you get the most out of your sport. Having the right size and shape board makes a HUGE difference to how you ride and the response you will get from your board. If your interested in the anatomy of the bodyboard, read on! |
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As a basic rule, your bodyboard should come up to roughly 2 cm either side of your bellly button.
(This is a general guideline)
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A wide nose board helps prone riders by having a large planing area in the front of the board. A dropknee board has a narrow nose due to the fact that most of the surface area is toward the tail. |
Normally Between 20.5 - 23 inches) Measured at the widest point on the board. This measurement is critical because it is directly related to overall curve of the template. A board with a large difference between the nose width and mid width will be very "curvy". This type of board will turn very quick and snappy. Having a small difference between the nose and width will keep a "straight" template, normally used in larger waves for long drawn out turns
(Normally Between 16.5 - 19.5 inches) Affects the overall curve while helping the board get on plane sooner. A wide tail planes soon but sacrifices turnablility by straightening the overall curve and making a rail to rail transition more difficult. A narrow tail makes rail to rail riding easier. Our Gull Wing Tail option helps add lift in the tail for those who want that option.
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A general rule of thumb is having a board that comes to your belly button. A smaller board is easy to handle while a larger board will be more stable.
Measured from the nose to the overall wide point. This point is the pivot point of your turns...further back for dropknee or tail riders, toward the nose for most prone riding.
Rail proportions are described as ratios. 50/50 being 50% bottom rail and 50% top rail. Normally a lower (50/50) is looser, while a higher 60/40 rail makes for more stability and little more holding power. The smaller the rail % the easier it will contact the waves face.However if you are fairly heavy this could cause the board to bog down as too much of the board will go into the waves face so a larger rail % is suggested
This is the inside of the bodyboard and determines the strength and flexability of the board.
(PE) PE This is the most common core used in bodyboards. This core is softer than arcel and works well in most conditions. It works better in cooler water as it is prone to creasing in warmer climates. It has a good memory and flex for turning. When the water is very warm the board has a tendency to get too flexible, which effects the speed. If you combine this core with a stringer its durability and and stiffness is improved dramatically.
Polypropylene has an incredible weight to strength ratio. The lightest core available. It is much stronger than polyethylene, with half the weight. It has a better flex/memory response than anything on the market. It stays stiff in warm water and the projection you get out of a turn is insane. It is also more resistent to the effects of heat. A stringer may also be added for those riders who like more stiffness and added durability.
A hollow carbonfiberglass tube is inserted in the middle of the board, giving it incredible flex, memory and strength. It also keeps the rocker flat which makes the board fast.
Channells are used to enhance rail holding. They channel the water out of the tail and help the rail dig into the wave face. They are created in the boards bottom 6mm in from the rail and 25cm in length, they are tapered from entry down to 5mm at exit
Crescent Tail This is a full radius cut from point to point on the tail. Best combined for DK boards and really hollow waves. Not a good choice if you want to spin.
This tail will increase speed in powerful waves. Provides lots of maneverability.
Words well for all conditions and styles of riding. |
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